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Be a Traveler, Not a Tourist !

Dawson City - Carmacks

August 19, 2009
The night was quiet, except for the usual sounds of the ferry in Dawson. It rained all night. In the morning, I had breakfast with three Austrians. They invited me in for a jam sandwich and coffee, really nice!

After breakfast, I packed up my tent and equipment and took the ferry to Dawson, where I spent most of the day sitting in the internet café.

It was pouring with rain again...

In the evening I met Igor, he invited me to pitch my tent with him. He has a spot at the campground where he always parks his van. We watched a video and talked shop about photography into the night. Igor is a very good photographer and knows the area around Dawson and the Dempster Hwy very well.

My good friend Igor.

Igor's license plate...

August 20, 2009
I left the campground at 8:30 and took the ferry to Dawson.

Checked the internet, coffee and mail and recharged the computer. Then I cycled through Dawson City again and took some photos.

Suddenly, I saw a big truck with German license plates drive past. I followed it and found it at the campground. It was Christine and Peter Lambert with their MAN. We had a great chat about the truck and traveling in general.

Take a look at their website at:

www.dergrossewagen.de

The website name fits well ! Many thanks to Christine and Peter for the many tips on building an expedition motorhome!

At about 10:00 a.m. we set off in the direction of Whitehorse.
Outside Dawson you can still see the remains of the gold mining era.

Oh yes, I also saw a young eagle. It was sitting in a tree, and I was able to take a few very nice photos, I just wish I had a longer telephoto lens with me...

At the turnoff to the Dempster HWY to Inuvik I had a coffee in the lodge and did some work on the computer.

After 42.2 km and 4:23 pure driving time, I set up camp directly on the Klondike River and took a dip in the river.

Not exactly warm, but at least I got rid of the sweat!

Km 42,2
Ride time 4:23
Total time 7:23
Standing time 3:00
Average 9,6
Camp 17:23

First Street in Dawson.

The old bank building is finally being renovated!

I've never seen Dawson this empty!

It is usually very busy in the evening, but this year....

I hope that more old buildings in Dawson City will be saved from decay in the future!

Otherwise they will soon no longer exist...

Christine and Peter Lambert in front of their long-distance motorhome.

A beautiful vehicle in the right hands!

Bridge across the Klondike River

The Klondike River

For me, it's not a matter of welcome but goodbye...

I wonder how many gold nuggets there are under my trike...

A young eagle

Lodge at the beginning of the Dempster Hwy, unfortunately I have to skip the Dempster, it's too late in the year for a bike tour, unfortunately...

I continue towards Whitehorse.

Bridge across the Klondike River

Enough sun to charge the batteries on my solar system!

Now that's what I call a nice camping spot, enough water to drink and bathe in!
How simple the needs are becoming on the road...

August 21, 2009
Slept late and took another dip in the Klondike River.
My cycling clothes were still wet from yesterday's wash, so I waited until they dried.

At 13:00 I rode on towards Whitehorse. Somehow I had no energy and was tired, even though I had slept well.

The thing with Sue had somehow really thrown me off track...

The scenery wasn't great either and to make matters worse, it was uphill again.

As I drove up the climb, I saw a car parked at the side of the road and someone was taking photos of me.
It was Dirk Böhm, the editor-in-chief of RoadSide Magazine. We talked about traveling and the magazine. He gave me an issue about Route 66, a really great magazine!

After 21.2 km, it was the end of the day for me. I pitched my tent at a rest area and immediately disappeared into the tent.

What a day!

Somehow I lost all desire to continue riding, I just wanted to get this trip over with. The thing with Sue really got to me....

Km 21.2
Pure riding time 3:18
Total time 5:00
Standstill time 1:42
average 6,4
Camp 18:0

The editors-in-chief of RoadSideMagazine

The cranes are heading south...

My camp at the rest area

Finally, a decent view of the landscape!

August 22, 2009
It rained during the night. At 3:00 a.m. a car stopped, and the driver sneaked around my tent for about 30 minutes, for whatever reason ...
I set off at 11:00. The landscape was a bit monotonous. I met a Canadian who is also interested in trikes, we talked about trikes for a while. He gave me a bottle of grape juice, sweets and three bars for the ride, super nice, thank you very much!
I rode until it got dark. I was just about to set up camp next to the road when I saw a massive black bear on the hillside in the last light...
Around 22:00 I pitched my tent, after 9:53 pure driving time and 96 km....

Km 96
Ride time 9:53
Total time 11:54
Standstill time 2:01
Average 9.7
Camp 22:00

The landscape changes color with the first night frost,
“Indian summer”.

Endless road, but it only looks flat, in reality it's a bit uphill, just enough to make you pedal hard....

There are always gravel sections, absolutely no problem for my full-suspension Pirol trike! The quality of the parts used and the workmanship is absolutely FirstClass.
A REAL MADE IN GERMANY !

Too bad I didn't bring a fishing rod....

McQuesten is deserted...

What a light in the evening...

August 23, 2009
It rained during the night. In the morning I had to pack up my tent wet...

It was up and down again. The landscape was unspectacular. Hilly with a river. Big clouds came up and got darker and darker.

In Stewart Crossing I went into the Whispering Willows Restaurant & RV Park and had a coffee and a chat with the manager Bob, a really nice guy. As there was WIFI internet, I also checked my e-mail.

Suddenly, the heavens opened all the floodgates. It rained with incredible force, something I've only seen twice in Germany in my entire life. The whole thing lasted a few hours, good thing I was in the restaurant...

After the rain had stopped, I cycled on for a few more hours and then set up camp next to the road at around 21:00.

When I had just finished setting up the tent, it started to rain. An hour later, it was raining so hard that I thought I was underwater.

A small stream formed just 20cm behind my tent. Mud was washed under my tent.

Thank goodness, my tent floor remained watertight, except for a small area from which some water gushed...

This downpour lasted about 1 hour, after which it drizzled all night.

Man, oh man that was close, if I had pitched the tent even 30 cm more to the back it would have been a pretty uncomfortable and wet night in the tent...

36 km

Pure riding time 4:40
Total time 10:00
Standstill time 5:20
Average 7,7
Camp 21:00

The Moos Creek Lodge. Here I met the Austrians from Dawson again!

Just like in a museum...

The clouds are a blast...

Can't get better than that !

Bridge across the Stewart River.

The Stewart River, I will paddle it in its entirety one day.

Lodge with very nice staff !

True deluges come down, only 10 cm closer and the stream would be in my tent....

I can tell you that those were not nice hours in the tent...

I thought the floods would wash away my tent & trike...

Everything was full of mud, thank God only in the awning, thanks to the superb quality of the Exped tent!

August 24, 2009
It continued to rain during the night.
In the morning the weather was fine, sunny with a mix of clouds and dry.
My tent floor and the groundsheet were full of mud. I had to dry everything first.

Around midday, I drove on towards Whitehorse.
The area was pretty monotonous again. Sometimes there were beautiful views of the landscape.

At about 6:00 I set up camp next to the road.
The clouds were getting darker and darker. Just as I had set up the tent, it started to rain. Lucky me...

At 2:00 a.m. a car came and drove back and forth, then someone got out. They were three Frenchmen. They apologized for waking me up and asked if they could camp next to me, it would be better because of the bears....

Sure guys, no problem ...
Km 25
Pure riding time 4:20
Total time 5:29
Standing time 1:06
Average 5.7
Camp 18:00

The next morning I could see exactly where the water was flowing...

Lots of things were damp!

And the tent full of mud and wet...

Endless woods...

And hardly any people, just as I like it...

Finally, another little beauty on the road

I had already missed that...

I thought I had found a nice camp, but then some people came in the night and made a lot of noise...

August 25, 2009
The French made a lot of noise in the morning.
When the noisy Frenchmen had gone, I checked my trike and was shocked to see that there were two cracks in the side of the rear wheel rim...

What a bummer. It is still about 270 km to Whitehorse. I hope the rims can still take it!

As I lay in my tent and thought about what I could do about the rim, I suddenly saw a familiar person in my tent entrance.

It was Helmut W., a German who lives near Whitehorse and whom I have known for several years.

He was on his way to Dawson City when he saw my tent and trike. Of course, he didn't miss the opportunity to say hello.

However, instead of offering to help me with my broken rim, he just drove on!

If you have friends like that, you don't need any more enemies! Thanks Helmut...

As I found out years later, he had a lot of trouble in Canada, well Helmut bad karma has caught up with you ....

My tent was still wet around 11:00 due to the high humidity, so I had to pack it up again soaking wet...
A little more cautious than usual, I drove on towards Pelly Crossing...

The landscape was the same as yesterday, monotonous.

In Pelly Crossing there was free W-Lan so nothing like taking out the computer and checking the mail.
About 20 km after Pelly Crossing I realized that I had forgotten to fill up my water bottles.

There were no streams for the next few hours, there were lakes, but no way to get there.

Around 19:00 I set up my tent next to the road. It was completely wet, so I set it up and let it dry, which took some time.

I took a water bottle and stood by the road to look for a motorhome. After half an hour, one came along. I pointed to my empty water bottle, but the driver just looked at me and drove on, great ...

Another hour later, two more arrived. The driver understood immediately and stopped.
Her husband got out and said, don't I know you from the Internet? He had found my website while browsing the net.

The world is that small!
Thank you both for the water!

Km 52.6
Pure riding time 5:52
Total time 6:35
Standing time 00:43
Average 9.0
Camp 19:00

I noticed with shock that my rear wheel rim was torn about 15 cm on both sides. This was probably the work of the Top of the World Hwy's...
With a lot of luck and a very gentle riding style, the rim only just lasted as far as Whitehorse!

Sorry, but after this photo, they disappeared into my pan with their colleagues. They taste almost like a cross between asparagus and calamari...

Pelly Crossing, finally there's something ICE COLD to drink again....

August 26, 2009
The night was nice and quiet. In the morning my tent was still wet, so I waited until it was dry.
A quick power breakfast, i.e. Amino Drink, and off I went. A constant up and down.

After a few hours I saw the Yukon River, ah that brings back memories....

After 52.8 km and 6:35 pure driving time, I set up camp on the road, but with a great view of the Yukon River at Yukon Crossing!

Suddenly a motorhome stopped, a German couple approached me, Hedwig Rabl and Ernst Leingärtner, they had seen the German flag on the trike. Then the usual questions about where from and where to etc. I asked for water, which I got straight away, I can never have enough super water.
The woman said, bring him a bar of chocolate, bread, the sardines and a beer, I must have looked so emaciated...

Thank you so much!

I immediately devoured the sardines, the bread and the chocolate with beer of course, my average calorie consumption is 6000 kcal...

I got up again in the night because it was starry.
Unfortunately no northern lights, but I did take some nice photos of the Milky Way. It's already pretty cold at night...

Km 52.8
Pure riding time 6:35
Total time 7:49
Standing time 1:13
Average 8.0
Camp 19:49

The vegetation is changing colors more and more...

And here comes the next rain shower...

An eternal UP and DOWN ...

Yes, yes it looks flat, but believe me my legs tell me otherwise...

The Ventisit seat cover is the best, no wet back no matter what the temperature!

This is a fantastic place to camp, with the Yukon River below me!

What a feast for the senses, many thanks to Hedwig Rabl and Ernst Leingärtner!

Sunset at the Yukon River...

Yup, sunset on the Yukon River, that's how I love it....

During the night I saw the Milky Way, but unfortunately no northern lights.The sunspot activity is very low this year!

In the morning it was very cold !

Morning fog over the Yukon River.

Freezing cold morning and cold muscles are not exactly nice for trike riding...

Views of the Yukon River again and again.

The Five Finger Rapids, which I have been through many times.

Finally Arrived in Carmacks....

August 28, 2009 Day off !

I have now covered approx. 2800 km to Carmacks!

Continue with:

Carmacks - Whitehorse

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Only those who risk going too far, will discover how far they can go!
Expedition in USA, Alaska & Canada, Scandinavia with folding boat, motorboat, catamaran, motorcycle, off-road vehicle, bicycle ...