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Be a Traveler, Not a Tourist !

Chicken/ Alaska -Dawson City Yukon /Canada

                                 August 13, 2009
The night was quiet except for one idiot who left his generator running in the motorhome until 2:00 in the morning... 

                     (damn stupid guy !)

In the morning, I took down my tent and realized that everything was wet due to the high humidity. I tried to dry the inner and outer tent, but was unsuccessful. 

It started to drizzle. Great, that's still missing...
Immediately after Chicken, the road climbed steeply and continued to do so all day!

One climb after another, it was almost unbearable. Light drizzle again and again.

In the afternoon, I met two Germans in a camper van. Milan & Marius. They are traveling for half a year in Alaska and Northern Canada. As I was short of food, I asked them if they could sell me some. Milan brought me two cans and a pack of rice and a delicious Alaskan Stout Beer. When I wanted to pay, they didn't take the money. Hey, thanks a lot Milan & Marius!

It's good that I meet people from time to time because otherwise the food supply would be terrible! There are no places to shop, and carrying all the food with you is far too difficult. Or just noodles....

I continued in the direction of Boundary. Suddenly another camper van behind me, it was Milan again, he handed me an apple, the guys know what a cyclist needs...

Today was really tough, I climbed the last kilometer-long climb with my last ounce of strength at around 22:00 and then set up camp about 2 km after the turn-off to Eagle.

I was cold, sweating profusely, and it started to drizzle lightly. I put up the outer tent and crawled inside and fixed the footprint floor and the inner tent, finally ready.

After 8:47 pure riding time I lay in my sleeping bag and enjoyed the beer, cheers Milan & Marius !

I've ridden this route a few times by car and motorcycle, but now on a trike I understand why it's called the Top of the World Hwy!

It only goes uphill over the ridges and along them. In some places it is just wide enough for two normal cars to drive, but woe betide two trucks meeting...

Km 48
Pure riding time 8:47
Total time 11:43
Standstill time 2:55
Average 5.5
Camp 22:30

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Old gold dredge in Chicken.

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Last view of Chicken...

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It goes higher and higher...

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And that for hours on end...

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Sometimes in serpentine...  

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And not a lot of downhill...

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But time and again I am rewarded with beautiful views...

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Rest at over 1100 meters...  

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Not a soul to be seen far and wide, that's how I love it!  

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A long day is coming to an end, it's getting dark, it's time to find a camp...   

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Lucky me, I can set up my tent while it's still light and just in time before it starts to rain... Drinking water is a real problem at over 1100m, there are no streams here and only a few puddles to filter water. No problem on the motorcycle or in the car but on the bike...

                                   August 14, 2009
It had been raining all night and when I woke up in the morning it was the same!

So, another rest day, actually I wanted to go on, but I wouldn't get far on the soggy road. Good thing I still had enough time...

Around noon, a motorhome came by. The couple unhitched their jeep and drove off.

A few hours later they came back and invited me for a piece of cake and a cup of coffee and gave me some drinking water, because there are no more streams here above 1100m...

Lena and Terry have been to Alaska several times with their motorhome. It's remarkable where Terry drives that monster everywhere. Super nice people!
Towards evening, they drove their motorhome a few kilometers back to a more level spot.

At around 9pm, a Japanese man on a bike raced past. On the next hill, he suddenly slowed down and then got off and pushed his bike.

So I'm not the only cyclist to have problems here. Thank goodness I don't have to push my trike...

The advantage of a normal bike is that you're much faster on the road and that light mud on the slopes doesn't immediately mean the end as with a trike, especially with a trailer...

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The slope becomes a mud hole !

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At last the cover stays tight, it's a good thing I re-impregnated it...

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The slope is slowly starting to dry out again...

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Top of the Word Hwy is really the right name for this route!  

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Unequal sleeping quarters...  

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It's as big as a coach in our country...

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Terry und Lena, thank you so much guy's !  

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The track is still soft, time to take a look at the tundra

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Lichen, the food of the Caribous, but not for me...

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But there's something for me too, berries...  

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   ... and enough to give me a nice dessert!   

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If it doesn't rain tonight, then I could go on tomorrow...  

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It's going to be fun, first thing in the morning I'm going uphill with cold muscles!  

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But at least I don't have to push my trike on hills like this Japanese guy, that was revenge for not even saying HELLO.... !

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Thanks to Terry & Lena I have enough water to boil again, what are we having, of course NOODLES !  

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It's getting dark again, the time with almost 24 hours of light is over...  

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Magnificent sunset and absolute silence ...

                             August 15, 2009
                             Rain, rain, rain...
It's raining today too, but even more than yesterday. The road is slowly turning into a muddy track! Now I'm stuck, and I can only hope that tomorrow will be better...

Around noon, Lena & Terry came by again. They gave me some energy gels and some more water so that I have enough in case I get stuck for another day.
Thank you so much for your hospitality Lena & Terry!

                               August 16, 2009
It rained all night. When I got up at 5:00 a.m. it was cloudy but dry.

I quickly took down the tent and packed all my things.

Then I drank some power food (aminos) and at 6:00 I was on my way.

It was very cold, and a biting wind was blowing. No wonder I was here at over 1000m!

It went steeply uphill again. And it started to rain again, at first just drizzle, but then it poured.

When I arrived in Boundary, I realized that everything was closed here too, no warm coffee...

The climbs became steeper and longer. I arrived at the border at around 15:00. It was still raining.

The customs officer was very nice, and the procedure was completed quickly. I was also able to refill my water bottles.

I had been traveling for over 10 hours when a car with two German couples pulled up next to me. After the usual questions, from where to where etc., one woman got out and gave me a bag of Haribo and a piece of cake.

It's hard to believe, last night I thought a bag of Haribo would be great, and now I have one and even with my favorite filling, licorice with coconut. Many, many thanks !

You can hardly imagine how good something like this tastes out here in the bush....

After 11:15 pure riding time and 14:30 total time, I camped on a mountain ridge at over 1150 meters.
Man am I exhausted, and my knee joints hurt like crazy, that was a bit much today...

61.2 km
Pure riding time 11:15
Total time 14:30
Standing time 3:15
Average 5.4
Camp 20:30 


 

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It was quite fresh in the morning.

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Forest as far as the eye can see and not a soul but me....
In such a landscape, you realize very quickly how small man is!   

 

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Riding on this surface is quite tedious....

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Oh well, the next climbs are coming....  

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Arrived in Boundary.
I was looking forward to a coffee, but unfortunately everything was deserted...
BUMMER

 

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Now I'm back in Canada, the border is behind me!  

 

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And yet another bad weather area is coming...

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I just hope I don't get stuck in the mud...

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The surface is a little better since the border, more gravel than clay...

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Gore-Tex suit and heating vest are an ideal combination, especially for breaks in the rain and wind!   

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I can tell you that I often have to kick my inner bastard in the butt at my age of 46 with hardly any body fat left....

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Will it finally become flatter now?

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Towards evening there is finally a break in the rain and I have time to pitch my tent in the dry.   

 August 17, 2009

Woke up at 5 o'clock. Rain, rain, rain.I started around 10. Of course, as usual, only uphill!
Met Germans in 5 motorhomes.
One of the people gave me water and Wasa crispbread. I must look starving....
Met another female biker. She comes from Oregon, she also says that the people here in the north are very unfriendly to cyclists, no comparison to the lower 48, funny ...
In the evening when I had just set up my tent I met a couple from Toronto who had taken 6 months off and were going to drive from Toronto to Alaska and then to Baha California in a VW bus. They also thought the place was great and camped right there.


Km 46.2
Pure driving time 7:47
Total time 10:00
Standing time 2:13
Average 5.9
Camp 21:00

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According to my GPS, I can see over 100km away here, thanks to the clear air!

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A big compliment to the company HV Corporate Concepts AG.
Their fleece heating vest works absolutely great!

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Showers come up again and again...

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The inner bastard has lost again...(lol)  

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Let the next climbs come!

 

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Finally there is more sun than rain again...  

 

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The road is dry again!

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Absolutely superb scenery...

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The weather & my mood has improved...

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Endless woods...

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And the slope is really called a highway here....

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Without rain you're in a better mood!

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And when you then see a rainbow...

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Tent set up dry... yiiihhhaaaa.....

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I am rudely awakened in the morning!

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Just a good thing they don't plow up the whole track...

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Fog and clouds over the Yukon River.  

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My heart is heavy. I would love to go paddling again straight away....

18 August 2009

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I had a coffee with them in the morning and then set off in the direction of Dawson City. Finally, a long downhill stretch. When I arrived in Dawson City, I spent the night with Dieter at the Yukon River Hostel. But first I went to the   www.goldrushcampground.com

to wash my clothes and take a shower. And all for free, because Pat & Dianne Brooks didn't take any money from me when they heard where I came from...

               Be a Traveler, Not a Tourist !

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Dawson City in sight !

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The city of gold diggers and tourists   

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The Klondike River flows into the Yukon River at Dawson .  

 

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Waiting for the ferry across the Yukon River to Dawson City.  

 

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I've never seen the ferry so empty during the day...  

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I'm already looking forward to showering, fresh laundry and of course “ real FOOD ” ....

Live can be so simple !

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In the evening I stayed at the Yukon River Hostel with my friend Dieter Reimund. Of course it was raining again...

 

Continue with:

Dawson City - Carmacks

 

 

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